surfing camaraderie

OK, so I guess this is blogging? OK, here I go……today was an epic surf day…truly fantastic…not sure how it’s possible to love a sport this much and to get out into that water each and every time with my knee the size of a grapefruit and still surf decently. My pop ups are definitely affected by my weak quad and a knee that just won’t flex as it used to…but seriously I love it out there. For those surfers who were there beside me in the line up today…hey thank you for the smiles and the nice commentary and encouragement. The line up was so quiet and peaceful today…I could feel how everyone there was so excited for this hurricane swell that finally gave us lucky souls some great waves to ride….It never ceases to amaze me how kind people are as they share the waves…

The water is our common denominator and our equalizer. We all know how dangerous it can be out there and we all know we must respect the waves and each other. There is reverence. There is pure joy. There is a shark? There is the thrill of dropping into a wave. It is a rush. It is a thrill. There is the wave that you just can’t catch no matter how hard you paddle. There is the party wave that turns into a collision wave. Each wave is a new chance offering a new lesson to be learned. The waves keep coming. and somehow as soon as I finish riding one I can’t get back out to the line up fast enough. I’m hooked. I’m toast. i’m on top of the world. There is no where I’d rather be and nothing I’d rather do than this. technology can’t reach us out here. we are free. We are at one with nature. we are playing in the waves and we are so very very free.

 

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